“Gimme me a bise, baiser or bisou – just don’t use baiser as a verb”: A guide to Kissing

In cold, rainy England, where we try to limit physical contact with unknowns (and sometimes friends) as much as possible, and where being accidentally brushed by someone on the tube warrants an apology (on the part of the brushed, that is), the idea of kissing somebody you have just met is, despite our (vague) awareness of our continental neighbours, not really done. Unless you’re being a pretentious prick like I was at around 16 when a friend and I would always exchange three kisses on the cheek when we greeted and parted. We thought we were so cute and special, not realising that the triple bise is the standard greeting of an entire country. A small one, granted. But a country nevertheless.

I generally like this European habit of kissing on the cheek as a greeting, though this naturally depends on whom you are required to kiss. Furthermore, hidden beneath the surface of this charming social ritual lie endless perils, social pitfalls and potential awkwardness, a large number of which I have experienced. If you’re picturing me exchanging graceful pecks on cheeks with strangers over glasses of sparkling rosé and platters of continental cheeses, revelling in my elegance, dignity and physical ease around strangers, THINK AGAIN.

For a start, there’s the name of the thing. Generally we exchange bises when we kiss on the cheek, though a familiar word for kiss is also bisou. Just to complicate things, though, there is also the word baiser, which means kiss if you use it as a noun but if you confuse this and use it as a verb (the word kiss in English is, after all, also both noun and verb) it means… well. How to put this delicately? It means “to fuck”. So you can give someone a baiser but if you baise, it is rather a different level of intimacy. Being in the youthful milieu that I am, no prizes for guessing in which form I hear this word more, which is why generally my heart stutters which shock for the first split second after I hear the word “baiser” come out of a child’s mouth.

There are rules to this thing, too, you know. Here in Vaud, at least, you don’t actually KISS a person’s cheeks, you weirdo! No, you touch cheeks, and all your lips are responsible for is making loud smacking noises. Those noises are an important social necessity. I didn’t realise this when I first arrived, giving stonily silent bises to the consternation of my kiss-ees. These days I notice if someone doesn’t make noises while we exchange bises. I’ve also experienced that odd person (generally men I won’t lie) who literally kisses your cheeks. As in, neck rotating round at each turn to land a wet smacker directly on each unhappy chop. Shudder.

Then there’s the question of what to do with the rest of your body while you’re touching cheeks with someone, often someone you are not particularly close to. Do you not touch at all, bodies metres apart and arms akimbo, while you lean in at the waist to limit physical contact to your bumping cheekbones? Seems a bit strange. Do you hug that person? This is actually quite difficult to do while trying to touch cheeks. In England we tend to hug our friends and sometimes without realising it I have gone in for a hug while someone has been looming toward me with lips puckered, and the result is generally a bumbling dance of awkwardness. A good compromise seems to be to lightly put your hand on that person’s elbow; this works best if you both do it with the same arm, to avoid a bizarre arm situation where you are trying to grab the elbow of the arm trying to grab yours.

If the Swiss three-time kiss seems excessive, in France the figure can rise to four depending on the region, but in my experience in France so far it is two. I forgot this once in France when greeting my boyfriend’s housemate, and after exchanging two kisses I went straight in for a third, to his obvious consternation (not to mention my boyfriend’s, who was watching and wondering why I was going back for more), as he had started to withdraw but I was still diving in. Social awkwardness.

One of the most common problems is whether to go for the right cheek or left cheek first. I would say starting with the right cheek (my instinct) is marginally more common than the left, but it really depends on the person, and where they come from. But of course if the person you are kissing starts on the opposite side to you, often your faces come uncomfortably close and you end up almost exchanging a REAL kiss. Or you end up performing head movements that look like you are rehearsing a Bollywood dance routine, or doing a ghetto neck roll. The hazards are endless, I tell you!

Trying to talk while touching cheeks three times and making the compulsory smacking noises? Awkward. Trying to kiss someone three times when they are considerably taller than you and not bending down? Awkward. Going in at different speeds/intensities? Awkward. Losing your balance while leaning in, so you fall on the person/step on them? Awkward. Misjudging distance and bumping cheekbones a bit too hard, so that what was meant to be a friendly greeting ends up hurting both parties? Awkward. Trying to kiss someone when they are not Swiss or French (probably English) and clearly not expecting it, let alone thrice, and is obviously not used to it and looks uncomfortable and unwilling but is undergoing what is clearly torture to them for the sake of manners? Awkward.

I would like to say I’ve never experienced any of the above. Maybe those laid-back continentals just don’t experience awkwardness; there is no word that directly correlates to “awkward” in French, after all. But I’m English, and in England “awkward” is not just a word, it’s an essential part of our social heritage. Just be warned, my children, that’s all. It’s a dangerous business, this bise/baiser stuff; a positive social minefield. Be warned.

Clubbing classy-like

It’s been a while since I hit the campus club back here in England. A year away had faded my memory of just what a uni night out in England looks like. However, walking across uni at, oh around 10pm the other evening, heading home with some nutrition-less supplies from the campus supermarket to fuel a late-night reading session, I was slapped in the eyes with the sight of what can only be described as rows of naked legs on stilts.

What I was seeing, of course, was several young lasses out on the lash, tottering precariously on skyscraper talons, spilling out of their dresses, with their bare extremities exposed to the autumn evening chill, inching along to the club entrance. I even saw one trip and fall hard on the pavement. Naturally such a sight was not alien to me, but it had been quite a while since I had been exposed to this kind of garb and behaviour. In Lausanne there was never anything that even came close to it. People would make remarks at my sparkly handbag, god knows what they would have made of such livery…

It saddens me to see this, not because it is necessarily an unpleasant sight (hey some of them girls had bodies…but not all), but because it shows where some girls perceive their value to lie (the more you resemble Lady Gaga, the better, apparently). Not to mention the risk to their health; I mean, at least put on a coat! It all feels very exaggerated, unnecessary and try-hard. In Europe, I found the girls very beautiful, but they were for the most part simply made up, and quite casual, even on nights out, and I don’t think the surrounding boys found them any less attractive or interesting. I suppose because their primary concern lay not in how glam or overstated their appearance was, or how many vodka shots they would need to put away before their “beer jacket” would be thick enough to allow them not to feel the cold on their bare flesh…

“Drunk sluts” I believe was a quote used in my previous post, uttered to me by a student on ERASMUS here. It was not the first time I had heard similar sentiments expressed to me about how English girls are perceived abroad, and it saddens me. We’re not ALL like that! But it’s true there’s a general orientation toward blackout-aimed drinking. I remember a fellow English exchange student becoming extremely self-conscious about downing her drink one night in Lausanne, something she would not have hesitated one second to do back home: “I know it’s not what people do here…”

So much for the girls, the boys are hardly sparkling examples of gallant, gentlemanly valour, nor sobriety, themselves. I noticed that while out dancing in Lausanne I didn’t experience the same sordid come-ons I think most girls here are familiar with. I’ll never forget one fellow exchanger, who was certainly in possession of all the necessary trappings to make him a big hit with the ladies (I imagine he’d get clawed to death if he ever set foot in our club here), telling me that back home when he went out at night with his mates, it was indeed to meet girls, but just to talk to them. Flirt a bit, and maybe get a number, if they were lucky. Even kissing didn’t really enter the night’s objectives. Flabbergasted. Well, I don’t know, perhaps he was just a special one, but I always thought there were clear categories: guys out for the music, guys out just because their mates are, and guys out on the pull.

Naturally these are generalisations, but let’s face it, when don’t we generalise? In short, partying with the continentals felt markedly more chilled out and classy. Sure, people drank, and sometimes to excess, but it’s just….different. It’s difficult to describe if you haven’t experienced both; I’m sure my fellow ERASMI know what I’m getting at. Here in England, we have a very.. special way to faire la fête. Let’s just leave it at that.

ERASMUS isn’t over…

So I might be back at my home uni. So it might be pouring with rain every time I step out the front door. So my friends are now scattered across the face of the globe. So I should actually be reading rather than blogging. I refuse to let it go. I refuse to accept that everything is back to normal. Now that the semester is well and truly under way, I am undergoing what can only be described as severe denial; my mind is rejecting reality like the cable connecting me to the Matrix is loose; like I’m half-asleep and waiting to wake up again.

It’s not helping that nobody is letting me forget it. Every other day it’s, “how was your year abroad?”, at which I launch into my usual litany of its amazingness. I am still, despite my best efforts to unsubscribe, stuck on the Lausanne Xchange mailing list and keep getting emails and invitations about upcoming fun events, in which I shall have no part. Facebook throws similar things in my face, with photographs to boot.

I’m not helping myself either. Just last night I went to an ERASMUS society social, accompanied by a friend who is also mourning the end of his exchange in Barcelona. Together we, like tired old hags trying to regain their youth, attempted to relive that old magic. But it just wasn’t the same. For a start, it’s no fun when you’re at home. Secondly, it was a really calm evening and everyone was rather reserved. Where was that spontaneous, boisterous spirit that so characterised our own exchanges, where everyone spoke to everyone and we were all one big dysfunctional, multi-racial family?

I suppose ERASMUS is not the same for everyone. Maybe this year’s exchangers just want to take it easy. I know I shouldn’t, but I can’t help looking back at my old planner in which I wrote down every work and social engagement. This time exactly one year ago, on October 12 2011, I was busy preparing our pre-drinks party chez moi before we headed to Darling for our weekly exchange social, during which I had the pleasure of making the acquaintance of a rather disproportionately high number of unusually good-looking European boys.

Speaking to other returning students, a fairly common sentiment seems to be that it all feels like a dream, now that we’re back. It’s true. Did it all really happen? Looking around at the dull, rainy, grey campus and hearing the foreign exchange students bashing English drinking culture (“They’re just drunk sluts”), the contrast couldn’t be greater. I know I shouldn’t compare, but it’s demoralising, to say the least.

But I still count myself lucky. Thanks to two francophone housemates, a French boyfriend and the innumerable French students on campus, my français-hungry ears are not too starved. Not all my friends graduated and buggered off while I was gone, and many still return to soothe me with their company. I’m waiting (hoping) to see some familiar friendly faces from my exchange year come and visit at some point this year, and at least, whatever it’s like now, it happened. I’m fine with where I am. Really.

Anyone got a time machine lying around?

Back to Reality

It was never going to be easy dragging ourselves back to our home universities after exchange for that much-dreaded fourth, and final, year. Flicking through photos of that magical year abroad, it’s hard to believe that just three months ago I had a balcony view over the Alps all of my own and that Lake Léman, glittering under the summer sunlight, was a short metro ride away.

Now, with the interminable rain and grey skies of England hanging over us, we return to the real world of our actual degrees. Oh, and this year is the most important of them all (read: nose. Grindstone), counting for more than the last two combined and featuring the delightful prospect of a dissertation to write. But one mustn’t get bogged down in negativity. I, being someone who enjoys writing (not to mention a bit of a geek), am really rather excited about my dissertation. It actually feels rather refreshing to have the pressure of a lot of work to do for once. In addition, there are some real pluses to being back home.

For a start, emotional reunions with friends of old. There’s nothing quite like all coming back together after a year apart, most of us with exciting tales from abroad to relate. Also, the earliest time classes can start is 9am, such a luxury! Price tags, though hardly rock-bottom in England, don’t feel like a kick in the stomach every time you turn one over.  It may be less exciting back home, but it is still home. We be back on our home turf, we know how things roll here; whether we like it or not, we can deal.

In general, I am feeling rather old now as I walk across campus. That harrassed look on the faces of the Freshers during the first week as they stalked about looking for their classes (probably nursing hangovers) recalled my first days, so long ago… Ah, bless their hearts. “Party” has swiftly become an unknown concept to my life; I just cannot afford it, neither time nor energy-wise. The most exciting social event of the past week was a Chinese dinner for the moon festival, and I’m more than fine with it. I’ve calmed down in my old age; the thought of being pressed up against drunken, sweaty first-years in the university nightclub, or trying to research Greek mythology with a pounding head, doesn’t really hold much appeal for me.

Let me drown in a pile of books and studiousness, as opposed to loud music, flashing lights, skipping lectures and having my face licked by strangers (this has never actually happened, thank god). I’m cool with that.

How to have a long-distance lurve

Going on exchange has in turn shattered my faith in long-distance relationships and strengthened my conviction that love will conquer all… But before we get into that, what exchange has first and foremost changed is my perception of what constitutes a “long distance”. Before, when my university experience was limited to the borders of my own country, I thought something like London to Manchester was a long distance. Pah! That’s less than 200 miles. Today, I scoff at any distance within a country as small as England.

I now know of couples who are separated by many, many more miles. Try Europe to America, China, or even that isolated, godforsaken, middle-of-nowhere (our former penal colony) continent…Australia (!). Whether it was a temporary separation for the duration of exchange or, much more challengingly, the distance interposed after meeting on exchange, these epic, literally globe-spanning expanses rather jolted my notion of long-distance.

But here I am not concerning myself with the “long distance” of a couple who are from the same place but parted ways for a short time for exchange. If you can’t even survive that, deary me… For this kind of couple there’s a whole tangle of other issues that will be at play: the excitement of leaving one’s home and country possibly for the first time; temptation in the form of countless exotic foreigners; “I’ve been with him since I was fourteen, is he really the right one, or is it just habit?” “I want to enjoy myself, I need to be single” etc. Please, all that just means you needed a change and exchange was the catalyst. In fact, it was normally this kind of couple that rather broke my confidence in long-distance, though I do also know of couples that survived without a scratch.

What I want to talk about, however, are the relationships that form, often at an exponential pace, while in a strange land and what happens when we have to go home. The big question: can it work? My answer: …it depends. It depends on so many things; each individual couple is different, and personalities, life circumstances, not to mention the actual distance we are looking at, all come into play.

However, the one factor that is absolutely essential for any long-distance relationship to work is having the solid certainty, or at the very least the easily attainable option, of an end to the period of separation. Whether for two years or ten (it is up to the couple to decide how long they can endure) if there is not the promise of actually being together properly sometime in the future to look forward to; in other words, if there is no hope, it probably won’t work…

Some people won’t even drag themselves to the other side of town to maintain a romance, so if you’re willing to traverse borders, that person is someone special. And, as I mentioned before, 1 in 10 people meet their life partners on ERASMUS, so it’s far from doomed if you really want to make it work! That’s not to say it’s going to be easy, but when is love ever? These days, armed with the internet, our computers, smart phones, and whatever else, it’s not as hard as it could be. I swear I owe so much to Skype, I ought to leave them a hefty bequest in my will.

Any relationship is a commitment not to be entered into lightly, and if you slap on a great long distance, it will naturally make you think twice. I suppose you just have to ask yourself one question: is it worth it? Or rather, is he/she worth it? Once you have your answer, that’s all you need to know. Have courage, you’ll work out the rest.

Loving like you’re on exchange

There’s just no denying it, hooking up while studying abroad is for many an exchange student about as high up, if not higher, on the list of priorities as practicing a foreign language. Or at least forms as much a part of the exchange program as anything else. (Now, having done more or less two “exchanges” in one year, trust me, I have eyes and ears, I know…) The time is nigh to grapple with that messy thing, that force that has the power to hoist you up to the dizzying echelons of sky-scraping happiness and also dash your helpless self mercilessly upon the rocks of deepest despair. I am talking, of course, about love.

On exchange, you can be whomever you want; it’s a new start in an entirely different land; you don’t even need to speak your own language (unless you’re an anglophone. No escape there). You can leave behind your old baggage and tired ways and for most people this means a fresh, shiny version of themselves. Who couldn’t fall in love with that? The very friendships you make are intense, they become the adventure, they blow open your mind, inspire you and might just change your life. Now, imagine that but concentrated ten times in the form of a luverr. It’s kind of hard to match that.

Then of course we mustn’t forget the final ingredient to kick things into action and up the ante just that little bit more; the ever-present, pressing and most powerful stimulus: a time limit. No time to be shy, my dearies, no time to take things slow, else before you know it you’ll be packing your suitcases, saddled with the additional and worst possible load: regret. Every second spent together inches toward the final one, every moment ensemble becomes more precious than the last.

There is surely something extra exciting about finding insane chemistry with someone from another country, particularly if it is one that holds an especial fascination for you. There’s the exotic factor of course (cute accents, anyone?), and a sense of wonder at being able to find things in common with someone so different to you. Above all, there’s that desperate, tragedy-tainted, tumultuous blend of feelings that are bred from having too little time and a very unclear picture of your collective near future.

However, what makes it lasting and not just a foreign fling is if those fireworks are paired with a devotion equally as powerful. Loads of people look at romances on exchange as just that: an exchange thing, and that is where a lot of them end. But if it is something you are going to carry on, you have established the ideal precedent for your future. Chances are you had been travelling and adventuring together while abroad; there can’t have been many a dull moment together, no chance to get stuck in a boring routine. As my living like you’re on exchange espoused, if you take that exchange spirit away and keep it alive together, even just a little bit, those sparks shouldn’t be sputtering out any time soon…

Next post: the inevitable continuation and (uh-oh) thorny issue of…. long-distance relationships

Unpacking a hoard of memories

Isn’t it funny how one small, insignificant object (a scrap of paper carelessly scrawled upon; a forgotten ticket stub) can catch you unawares and plunge you suddenly back in time to a place, a person, a moment, a feeling?

I know it’s been a month and a half since I moved out of my little room overlooking Lausanne and left Switzerland with (significantly) more than just one tear in my eye, but I’ve only just started to properly unpack. I mean to say, I fled the country less than a week after returning home for a five-week stint in China (which incidentally helped with not sinking into Swiss-less depression), so did not have much time to put things in order. Now, however, I can take my time to start dealing with some of the various (tedious) admin and whatnot that I’ve left hanging for the last month. I have started by unpacking my possessions.

The last of the chocolates have been eaten, clothes have been hastily shoved away and books piled somewhere on a shelf, and once the various documents and boring bureaucracy have been swept aside, I find myself left with a small pile of odds and ends; paper mostly. Papers and cards that had been slipped into a book in order not to get crushed in my luggage, and then forgotten about.

A folded map of Switzerland, which used to adorn my bedroom wall, brought an almost painful pang as I ran my eyes over the places I once visited, each name invoking a mental image, sounds and tastes, and the people who were with me. A small pile of postcards, some written to me, some bought as souvenirs from Swiss towns, elicited a wistful smile. My old metro pass (which is actually still valid), an ID pass for a tour of the United Nations, my residence permit; all still there, all with invisible threads of reminiscences attached.

Then the little bundle of papers that anyone else would undoubtedly throw away without a second glance. A rough sketch explaining the offside rule, a quick note scribbled on the way out the door, an unused envelope, useless now because of the scrawls and doodles covering it, some draft blog notes written in Ticino. Yes, anybody else would chuck them in a second; I myself had completely forgotten about their existence, but it is precisely for this reason that discarding them would feel like permanently losing the associated memories.

These days, with thousands of photos of yourself tagged on facebook, it’s not difficult to reminisce on events past. But nothing can replace the unexpected discovery of some little memento, some small article, worthless to anybody’s eyes but your own, for whom it is the key that unlocks a fount of recollections, moments in which a camera would never dream of being, and could not capture accurately in any case.

I hope this doesn’t turn me into a hoarder.